出处：Gupta D. Design and engineering of functional clothing[J]. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, 2011, 36(4): 327.
原文：
Designandengineering of functionalclothing
------Deepti Gupta
出处：Gupta D. Design and engineering of functional clothing[J]. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, 2011, 36(4): 327. 1.1 Stretch Fabrics
Stretch fabrics are integral to design of functional clothing. From additional comfort to enhanced mobility, muscle support, muscle alignment and body part compression—all are now possible by strategic use of stretch fabrics. The efficiency and performance of textile sensors and electrodes, in particular, depends on the nature of contact with the body which can be controlled by the stretch characteristics of the fabric. Fabrics with 1 way,2 way and 4 way stretch are being developed to offer controlled stretch and functioning. Patternpieces have to be suitably engineered to provide the required stretch and fit in a product.
1.2 Smart Textiles
Smart textiles are materials that sense and react to environmental conditions or stimuli, such as those from mechanical, thermal, chemical, electrical,magnetic or other sources. Examples include chromatic materials which change colourwithchange in environment, phase change materials for thermoregulation and shape memory polymers which change shape with change in temperature.
1.3 Biomimetic Textiles
Biomimetics is a field which deals with development of materials which are inspired by natural phenomenon. From mimicking skin’s function to enhancing skin performance, more andmore materials are being developed which imitate living
systems. Breathable wet suits - based on the pores of leaves, self cleaning effects based on the lotus leaf and sharkskin effect (Fig. 2) for better hydrodynamics in water are some concepts which have already been commercialized.
1.4 Nanotechnology in Textiles
Developments in nanofibres (electrospinning), nano finishes, nano membranes and nano composites can be used to impart functionalities which were hitherto not possible to achieve in textiles. Antimicrobial, anti UV, stain repellent, fire resistant, antistat, moisture control and thermoregulation properties can be imparted at the molecular level without affecting the inherent flexibility and comfort of fabrics. Progress in this field is expected to yield multifunctional fabrics which are flexible,
lightweight and comfortable, making them the ideal choice for complex functional clothing applications.
Process of Clothing Design
Once the user requirements have been established,the next step is to identify and select appropriatematerials, followed by the design of clothingassembly, pattern engineering and the finalassembling of these heterogeneous materials to createmultilayer or composite assemblies in a manner thatallows them to adequately fulfill the requirements ofcomfort, protection and functionality
Conclusion
Design and engineering of functional clothing is a complex and challenging process. What adds to thecomplexity is the fact that the existing systems governing the design of fashion clothing cannot beused to design performance wear clothing and no guidelines are available for designing these hightech systems. User requirements and conditions of use play a critical role in the entire process of design, manufacture and testing. Availability ofinnovative materials and associated technologies for production and assembling of clothing ensemblesfor specialized functional applications has paved the path for development of new and innovative garments capable of providing enhanced comfort andproductivity and reduced physiological strain for the users. Joint involvement of engineers, designers,physiologists and ergonomists and the user is needed to fine tune the material choice, composition, sizing and assembling issues related to designing ofclothing for a specific end use.
Gupta D. Design and engineering of functional clothing[J]. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, 2011, 36(4): 327.