2000汉字，1000单词，5000英文字符
出处：Miller M. Embroidered textile design[J]. Textile Design, 2011:129–145. 原文
Embroidered textile design
M. MILLER
1 Introduction
Embroidery design is inextricably linked to the specific method of production, so this chapter provides an overview of the processes currently used for embroidery production. It provides an account of the recent changes in technology that have radically altered the use of embroidery, and includes sections outlining the key areas embroidery is used in. Finally there is a section suggesting likely future trends in embroidery.
Embroidery has always been a key feature of both household textiles and clothing, in recent years embroidered decoration has become even more predominant. This is for two reasons: the advances in embroidery technology have made it much cheaper and easier to produce embroidery, also increased globalisation and the easy access to cheap labour means hand-stitched embellishment is now created for mass-market clothing as well as for the more expensive end of the market. There is a third reason that has led to a huge increase in the amount of embroidery on clothing, and that is to do with the huge growth in branded goods over the last twenty years or so.
The commercial mass-production of embroidery is a surprisingly complex area. Embroidery is not a discrete process. It encompasses all types of stitched decoration, from all-overs on household textiles, to placement logos on caps and sweatshirts, to complex designs combined with print and sequin embellishment. 1.1 Definition of embroidery
The word embroidery has many meanings and connotations, in this chapter it is used to denote commercial embroidery, i.e. that done on or applied to garments or house- hold textiles for retail sale, as opposed to embroidery done for commission, as one-off pieces. The types of commercial embroidery covered in this chapter can be defined by method of production, i.e. tambour, Irish machine, Comely machine, schiffli machine, multi-head machine. (These different production processes are described
below.)
1.2 Types of embroidery
Embroidery can be created in many different ways; it can also be used in many different ways. The schiffli machines can create metres and metres of all-overs that can be used for household textiles or fabrics for clothing. These machines can also used be used for the creation of badges that are then attached to clothing when large quantities are required. They are also used to create embroidered trimmings.
Multi-head machines are mostly used for placement embroidery, most commonly logos and branding; however, they are also used extensively for feature embroidery on all manner of clothing and household textiles, especially towels. 2 Commercial production methods for embroidered textiles
Commercial production methods can be broadly divided into two, those that essentially consist of one person working on one piece of embroidery at a time, where the labour required is intensive and skilled: hand embroidery, tambour, Irish machine, Comely machine; and those that result in the production of more than one piece of embroidery at a time: schiffli machine, multi-head machine. 3 Digitising embroidery designs
Although schiffli and multi-head machines operate in different ways, the compute-riseddigitising systems for inputting design information are very similar. The terms?punching? and ?digitising? refer to the same process - the process of converting a design into a machine-readable format. This can be direct to machine, or stored on a disc. The term ?punching? originated from when holes were manually punched into a paper or cardboard roll. Until the 1990s computerised systems were also commonly referred to as ?punching? systems and the term ?punching? remains in use in some sectors of the embroidery industry.
4 Pattern control in embroidered textile designs
All machine embroidery is carried out by the movement of a piece of fabric beneath, or perpendicular to a needle or set of needles.
Embroidery done on these machines requires a considerable amount of skill by the
operator. The movement of the fabric to create the design is controlled freehand by the machine operator. There is sometimes an implication that embroidery created by machine is in some way inferior to that created by hand, as if less skill is involved. In fact the creation of embroidery on the Irish and Comely machines is very skilled. 5 Applications of commercial embroidery production
Although a certain amount of information about what is produced by the different methods has been provided in the above sections on production methods, it is useful at this point to reiterate some of the applications of commercial embroidery focusing primarily on the schiffli and multi-head industries.
A wide range of different types of threads and fabrics can be stitched on all these types of embroidery machines. The threads used can range from thick wools to fine silks, the fabrics stitched can range from sheer chiffons to thick plastic, for certain fabrics special backings or toppings may have to be used. 5.1 Household textiles
This includes, but is not limited to, towels, tablecloths, napkins, bed and table linen, and curtains. The use of embroidery on household textiles has become common-place; once it was limited to only high-end textiles, and mostly stitched on the schiffli machines; however, with the lessening production costs cheaper ranges of household textiles also use embroidery. 5.2 Clothing
Although in theory the application of embroidery to clothing is limitless, it tends to be used extensively in the following areas: childrenswear; womenswear, lingerie, sportswear, corporate clothing/workwear.
Children swear
Since the 1990s embroidery has been used extensively by manufacturers of children?s clothing, at all market levels, from the low end, such as Primark, to upmarket brands such as Burberry. Stores such as Marks and Spencer use multi-head embroidery on a very large proportion of their children swear. The signature look of both Oilily, and Monsoon is highly embellished, decorative clothing. Both these brands use a range of
textile techniques to achieve this look, embroidery is a significant part of this.
Women swear
Whilst many clothing ranges include elements of embroidery occasionally, there are a small number of companies for whom embroidery is a key part of their identity. Monsoon and Whistles are both upmarket companies whose garments often utilize different types of embroidery.
Lingerie
Women?s underwear has featured embroidery since before embroidery was automated. The schiffli embroidery manufacturers, such as Bischoff in St Gallen, Switzerland (www.bischoff-textil.com) have developed incredibly sophisticated ways of stitching onto complex stretch fabric bases.
译文
绣纺织品设计
作者：米列尔
1引言
服装刺绣设计的具体方法与生产过程是紧密联系在一起的，所以本文对目前用于刺绣的生产工艺作了一个概述，并阐述了最近这方面的技术变化，这些技术进步己经从根本上改变了刺绣工艺及其在服装设计和制作中的使用，最后是概述了刺绣使用中的几个关键部分，并表明了刺绣的未来发展趋势。
近年来，刺绣一直是家用纺织品和服装的一个关键特性，绣花装饰在服装设计中越来越重要，居于主导地位。这主要有两个原因：刺绣技术的进步使得刺绣的使用成本变的更便宜，也使得刺绣在服装设计中的应用变得更容易，也增加了其在全球范围的使用，尤其是全球范围内可以获得的廉价劳动力，意味着手工缝制装饰的人工成本也大大降低，可以为大众来设计并制作服装，以及获得更昂贵的高端市场，为那些更加追求品质的高端人群服务。还一个原因，导致了刺绣服装的大量设计和应用，那就是在过去的二十年左右，品牌商品的市场认可度获得了一个巨大的增长。
刺绣的大规模化商业化生产是很令人惊讶的。刺绣不是一个孤立的过程。它包含所有类型的接缝装饰等，从普遍使用的各类家用纺织品到帽子和运动衫的标识缝制，以及结合印刷和金片装饰的复杂设计。
1.1刺绣的定义
刺绣一词有多种含义和内涵，而在本文中，它被用来特指刺绣的商业应用，即将刺绣应用于销售的服装或居家纺织品设计。刺绣的商业化应用，其在所有类型服装或纺织品中的在制作都可以通过以下类型的生产制作工具来完成，如：用绷圈刺绣鼓、爱尔兰机器、科恩机器、飞梭刺绣机、多头机等。
1.2刺绣的类型
刺绣的制作可以使用许多不同的方法。刺绣本身也可以通过许多不同的方式来应用它。比如：用飞梭刺绣机，就可以制作山很均匀的织品布料，然后用于家用纺织品、而料服装中。这些机器也可以被用于制作衣服的名牌。他们也用于制作绣花装饰。多头机主要用于制作最常见的商标和品牌的刺绣，然而，他们也广泛用于在各种各样的服装和家用纺织品，特别是在毛巾中使用刺绣工艺。