之无愧的荣耀,雕塑家的工作室里随处可见最朴素却最富有生气的设计。 而建筑界竟会堕落到如此悲惨的境地!
5 There are, however, many reasons for a fact so lamentable.In the first place, the patrons of architecture (I am speaking of all classes of buildings, from the lowest to the highest) are a more numerous and less capable class than those of painting…There, the power is generally diffused.Every citizen may box himself up in as barbarous a tenement as suits his taste or inclination;The architect is his vassal, and must permit him not only to criticize, but to
perpetrate.The palace or the nobleman?s seat may be raised in good taste, and become the admiration of a nation; but the influence of their owner is terminated by the boundary of his estate: he has no command over the adjacent scenery,And the possessor of every 30 acres around him has him at his mercy.The streets of our cities are examples of the effects of this clashing of different tastes; and they are either remarkable for the utter absence of all attempt at embellishment, or disgraced by every variety of abomination…
不过,现实之所以令人惋惜,原因是多方面的。首先,建筑(我指的是所有等级的建筑,从最低等级到最高等级)的出资人,相比于绘画的赞助者来说,人数更庞大,能力却相形见绌。在建筑领域,权利总体上是分散的。每个公民可以按照自己的品味或爱好,住进粗鄙的房屋里。建筑师是他的仆从,不仅必须听任他批评,还得容忍他胡作非为。宫殿或贵族的宅邸也许能建出好品味,可以成为举国欣赏的对象,但这些建筑的主人的影响力到了地产的边界便中断了:他无法控制周边的景观。他住宅周围的人,只要拥有30英亩土地,就能对他随意摆布。我们的城市街道就体现了不同品位相互冲突的结果:他们或是因为毫无装饰之企图而引人注目,或是因为布满各种面目可憎的建筑而有失脸面。。。。。。
6 I shall attempt, therefore, to endeavor to illustrate the principle from the neglect of which these abuses have arisen; That of unity of feeling, the basis of all grace, the essence of all beauty. We shall consider the architecture of nations as it is influenced by their feelings and manners, as it is connected with the scenery in which it is found, and with the skies under which it was erected;We shall be led as much to the street and the cottage as to the temple and the tower;And shall be more interested in buildings raised by feeling, than in those corrected by rule.We shall commence with the lower class of edifices, proceeding from the roadside to the village, and from the village to the city; and, if we succeed in directing the
attention of a single individual more directly to this most interesting department of the science of architecture, we shall not have written in vain.
因此,我要尽力尝试对建筑原则进行阐释。正是由于漠视了原则,才会产生这些恶果。建筑的原则是感情的统一,这是所有优雅的基础、所有美得本质。当我们考察民族建筑时,应该考虑到它受到了人类情感和风俗的影响,它关乎周围的景致,关乎其下的那片天空。我们不仅应该考察殿堂与高塔,也要考察街道和村舍。我们应该将兴趣更多的投向用感情搭建而成的建筑,而不是用规则制定出来的建筑。我们应该从建筑的低级层次开始,从路边到村庄,再从村庄到城市;如果我们能够成功地进行引导,哪怕只有一个人为此更加直接的注意到建筑学中这最为有趣的领域,我们就没有白费笔墨。
The beauty industry美容业
1 it is a success in so far as more women retain their youthful appearance to a greater age than in the past. ”old ladies ” are already becoming rare. In a few years, we may well believe, they will be extinct. White hair and wrinkles, a bent back and hollow cheeks will come to be regarded as medievally old-fashioned. The crone of the future will be golden, curly and cherry-lipped, neat-ankled and slender. The Portrait of the Artist?s Mother will come to be
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almost indistinguishable, at future picture shows, from the Portrait of the Artist?s Daughter. This desirable consummation will be due in part to skin foods and injections of paraffin wax, facial surgery, mud baths, and paint, in part to improved health, due in its turnto a more
rational mode of life. Ugliness is one of the symptoms of disease, beauty of heath. In so far as the campaign for more beauty is also a campaign for more health, it is admirable and, up to a point, genuinely successful. Beauty that is merely the artificial shadow of these symptoms of health is intrinsically of poorer quality than the genuine article. Still, it is a sufficiently good imitation to be sometimes mistakable for the real thing. The apparatus for mimicking the symptoms of health is now within the reach of every moderately prosperous person; the knowledge of the way in which real health can be achieved is growing, and will in time, no doubt, be universally acted upon. When that happy moment comes, will every woman be beautiful—as beautiful, at any rate, as the natural shape of her features, with or without surgical and chemical aid permits?
越来越多的女性能更长久的保持青春的容貌,和过去相比,这的确是一种成就。“老太太”已经很少见了。我们有理由相信,几年以后她们将彻底销声匿迹。人们会把白发和皱纹、弯曲的背部和凹陷的双颊视为中世纪的过时风尚。未来的老妇人会拥有卷曲的金发、樱红的嘴唇、光洁的脚蹂、苗条的身材。在未来的画展中,人们将难以分辨哪一幅肖像是艺术家的母亲,哪一幅是艺术家的女儿。这种可人心意的成就,部分可以归功于护肤品、石蜡注射、面部整形、泥浴和化妆,部分可以归功于由于更为理性的生活方式而改善的健康状况。丑陋是疾病的症状之一,美丽则是健康的特征。鉴于追求美丽也是追求健康,这种努力值得赞许,一定程度上也真正获得了成功。模仿健康的外壳,制造人为的假象,这种美丽和真实存在相比,本质上要略胜一筹。不过,作为模仿,它相当出色,有时足以乱真。如今,每个中等富裕的人都买得起相关装备以妆扮出健康的样子,如何真正获得健康的知识也在日益增长,并且无疑会得到适时而全面的推广。当那个幸福的时刻到来的时候,每一位女性是不是都会美丽动人——不管是否用了整形手术、化学试剂,女性是不是能够发挥出天生的丽质?
The answer is emphatically: no. for real beauty is as much an affair of the inner as of the outer self. The beauty of a porcelain jar is a matter of shape, of color, of surface texture. The jar may be empty or tenanted, by spiders, full of honey or stinking slime—it makes no difference to its beauty or ugliness. But a woman is alive, and her beauty is therefore not skin deep. The surface of the human vessel is affected by the nature of its spiritual contents. I have seen women who, by the standards of a connoisseur of porcelain, were ravishingly lovely. Their shape, their color, their surface texture were perfect. And yet they were not beautiful. For the lovely vase was either empty or filled with some corruption. Spiritual emptiness or ugliness shows through. And conversely, there is an interior light that can transfigure forms that the pure aesthetician would regard as imperfect or downright ugly.
答案是斩钉截铁的:“不”。真正的美丽,事关外在的自我,同样也事关内在的自我。瓷瓶的美丽取决于它的形状、颜色和表面质地。饼子可以是空的,也可以由蜘蛛入住。可以装满蜂蜜,也可以装满散发恶臭的烂泥,这一切都影响不到瓷瓶的丑或美。但是女性是活生生的,因此她的美丽就不仅仅是表面的。身体这具容器的外表不会受到精神内涵的影响。我见过一些女性,按照鉴赏家欣赏瓷瓶的标准,她们相当美丽可爱。体型、肤色、肤质样样完美无瑕。但是,她们并不美丽。因为这可爱的花瓶要么是空空如也,要么装满堕落,泄露出了精神的空虚与丑陋。相反,在纯碎的审美家看来不算完美甚至是丑陋不堪的外形,可以在心灵之光的作用下变得美丽。
There are numerous forms of psychological ugliness. There is an ugliness of stupidity, for example, of unawareness(distressingly common among pretty women.) An ugliness also of
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greed, of lasciviousness, of avarice. All the deadly sins, indeed, have their own peculiar negation of beauty. On the pretty faces of those especially who are trying to have a continuous”good time”, one sees very often a kind of bored sullenness that runs all their charm?
心理上的丑陋有众多不同的形式。有一种丑陋是愚蠢,比如愚蠢到懵懂无知(这是漂亮女性令人苦恼的通病)同样,贪婪、淫欲、财迷心窍也是丑陋。所有致命的罪过以各自特有的方式否决了美丽。尤其是那些想要不断享受“美好时光”的人的娇艳面庞上,人们常常能够看到那种百无聊奈的阴郁神情,这神情将她们的魅力全部抹杀。
Still commoner and no less repellent is the hardness which spoils so many pretty faces. Often , it is true, this air of hardness is due not to psychological causes, but to the
contemporary habit of over-painting. In Paris, where this over-painting is most pronounced, many women have ceased to look human at all. Whitewashed and ruddled, they seem to be wearing marks. One must look closely to discover the soft and living face beneath. But often the face is not soft, often it turns out to be imperfectly alive. The hardness and deadness are from within. They are the outward and visible signs of some emotional or instinctive disharmony, accepted as a chronic condition of being.
更为常见而且同样令人反感的还有冷漠,它令多少美丽的容颜为之减色。实际上,这种冷漠的神态往往不是心理因素造成的,而是因为人们在现在时代养成了浓妆艳抹的习惯,在巴黎,浓妆艳抹的现象最为明显,许多女性看起来根本就不像是人。扑满白粉又抹上胭脂以后,她们像是戴上了面具。人们需要仔细地看,才能发现下面那柔和而鲜活的脸庞。不过,这脸庞往往并不柔和,看起来缺乏活力,从内心散发出默然的沉沉死气。它们是情绪或者天性和谐的外在显性表征,是公认的慢性的病态存在。
So long as such disharmonies continue to exist, so long as there is good reason for sullen boredom, so long as human begins allow themselves to be possessed and hagridden by
monomaniacal vices, the cult of beauty is destined to be ineffectual. Successful in prolonging the appearance of youth, or realizing or simulating the symptoms of health, the campaign inspired by the cult remains fundamentally a failure. Its operations do not touch the deepest source of beauty—the experiencing soul. It is not by improving skin foods and point rollers, by cheapening health motors and electrical hair-removers, that the human race will be made beautiful; it is not even by improving health. All men and women will be beautiful only when the social arrangements give to every one of them an opportunity to live completely and harmoniously, when there is no environmental incentive and no hereditary tendency toward monomaniacal vice. In other words, all men and women will never be beautiful. But there might easily be fewer ugly human beings in the world than there are at present. We must be content with moderate hopes.
只要这样的不和谐继续存在,只要确实有温怒和厌倦的理由,只要人类听任偏执罪恶的支配和折磨,对美好的时尚观念将注定不起作用。这种时尚观念所激发的行为成功延长了青春的容貌,实现或模仿了健康的外表,但从根本上说,这些举措都是失败的。它的运作没有接触到美得最深的根源——感受中的灵魂。人类想要变美,无法通过改良护肤品和美容器材,无法通过越来越便宜的健身器和电动除毛器,甚至无法通过提高健康水准。只有当社会给每一个成员机会,让他们完整而和谐地生活,只有当偏执的邪恶丧失了诱发的环境,拜托了遗传的倾向,所有的男人和女人才能实现美丽。换言之,不可能所有的男人和女人都美丽,但是和现在相比,这个世界上无疑能够少一些丑陋的人。我们应该满足于这微薄的祈盼。
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