阿亮每天睡觉前要查看自家的酸笋坛子,他透过光看一下酸笋的成色,儿子告诉他明天有人要来买酸笋,但是这些笋至少还要3天才能出缸,他打算推掉客人的订单。
Every day he will check the jars containing sour bamboo shoots before he goes to sleep. Under the lamp, he checks the processed shoots. His son says there will be customers tomorrow, but the shoots won’t be ready for another three days. He will have to turn away the customers.
老包正用冬笋制作一道家常笋汤,咸猪肉、冬笋各放一半,在柴锅中煸炒,加高汤慢炖。咸肉的腌味和冬笋的鲜味相互交融,在这道被称作腌笃鲜的江浙菜中,主角本来应该是春笋,但是老包却使用价格高出20倍的遂昌冬笋,因为在老包的眼里,这些不过是自家毛竹林里的一个小菜而已。
《舌尖上的中国》第一季第一集 自然的馈赠 (双语-段段对照)Episode 1 gift of nature
Bao is cooking soup with winter bamboo shoots. The salted pork and bamboo shoots with a half and half proportion will be fried before being simmered in soup stock. The two flavors melt together. Originally, the soup pickles tuk fresh was cooked with spring bamboo shoots. But Bao has instead used Suichang winter bamboo shoot. 再过一个节气,春笋即将取代冬笋,继续成就精彩的腌笃鲜。
Every lunar February, the spring bamboo shoot succeeds the winter shoot as the main ingredient for making the soup.
自然的馈赠(3)诺邓井盐
其实,除了新鲜食材,有时成就美食的调味料也同样来自于自然。在云南大理北部的诺邓山区,醒目的红色砂岩中间,散布着不少天然的盐井,这些盐成就了山里人特殊的美味。 area in northern Dali, the eye-catching red sandstones are the home to many nature salt wells. The salt is indispensable for making a delicacy in the mountain.
诺邓盐做的血肠腊制过程不长,一周后就可以享用。云南人老黄和他的儿子树江,正在小溪边搭建一个土灶。这个土灶,每年冬天的工作就是熬盐,水是卤水,熬盐的原料。这口盐井已经在诺邓村里存在了上千年。生产食盐,为的是制作诺邓当地独特的美味。
Process to make blood sausages won’t last long. One week is usually enough. Yunnan natives, Huang and his son, Shujiang, are building a cooking stove by a stream. They built such a stove every winter to cook salt. Brine is needed for the salt cooking process. The salt well has been here for over one thousand years. And the salt will help make a local speciality.
“太漂亮了!”老黄满意的说道。经验让老黄马上认出一条成熟的诺邓火腿。火腿3年前上好了盐,已经在这里彻底风干了。3年的时间,火腿上的脂肪已经氧化成了特殊的美味。火腿要用刀解开,每个部分都有不同的吃法,贴近中间骨头的肉是最好的,3年以上的诺邓火腿可以生吃。莴笋炒火腿,选肥瘦均匀的火腿和新鲜的莴笋同炒,放入大蒜调味,荤素搭配是诺邓当地的家常菜。
“It’s so nice!” Experienced Huang recognizes it is a mature Nuodeng ham. It was salted three years ago and has been air-dried completely. Over the course of three years, the fat in the ham oxidized and created a unique flavor. The ham will be cut into parts before cooking. Each part can be cooked differently. Meat to touch to the bones is the best. Hams over three years old can be eaten rare. Stir fried-ham with asparagus lettuces needs well-marbled ham meat and fresh asparagus lettuces. Garlic is added to season the dish. Local dishes are always cooked with both meat and vegetables.
中午气温升高,盐井边上的土层里,析出的盐分增多,吸引着附近的牲口。树江的盐已经熬了4个多小时,结晶渐渐形成。诺邓井盐中含钾,利于健康,而且口味清淡,是制作火腿最好的选择。过了模子的盐,重量被固定下来。这样精准的计量方式说明:盐曾经是诺邓最重要的商品。
As the temperature rises at midday, more salt exudes from the earth surrounding the well, attracting the animals nearby. Shujiang has been cooking now for four hours and the salt has gradually crystallized. The in the salt is good for health. And with a mild taste, the salt is perfect for making ham. The mold helps weigh a certain amount of salt. The precise weighing measure proves that salt used to be the most important commodity here.
云龙县的冬季市场,老黄和儿子树江赶到集市上挑选制作火腿的猪肉。高原上的猪不是一般的大路货,顶级的诺邓火腿可以长出完美的油花。制作火腿炒饭,热热的米饭混上肉丁,用手趁热团在一起,使得米香肉香混合起来,趁热吃味道最好。
Huang and his son came to a winter market in Yunnan County to select pork for ham-making. Pigs on the plateau are different. Top-rated Nuodeng hams contain a moderate amount of fat. Fried rice with ham is cooked by mixing rice evenly with diced ham and hot ham. It makes the fragrances of rice and the meat melt together. This
《舌尖上的中国》第一季第一集 自然的馈赠 (双语-段段对照)Episode 1 gift of nature
dish tastes best when hot.
每年冬至到大寒,是老黄父子制作火腿的最佳时间。诺邓在海拔1800米左右,位臵恰好在河谷中江水转弯的地方,这种温润的气候,最适合火腿的深度发酵。“腌制火腿时间很长,并不只是一天两天,它一个多月的腌,还吊!”老黄深有感触的说道。火腿的腌制在老屋的院子里进行。山区的气候总是变化无常,等到天晴气温低就是最佳的时机。树江已经做了十年的火腿,但是手艺远不如父亲。
Every year ham is made between the winter solstice and the great cold of the Chinese lunar calendar. At an elevation of 1800 meters, Nuodeng sits where a ferment the hams. “It takes much longer than one or two days to salt a ham. After being salted for a month, it will be hung up and air-dried. Huang and his son salt hams in their own yard. The climate on the mountain keeps changing. A cold sunny day is the best time to make hams. Shujiang has ten years of ham-making experience, but he is still less skilled than his father.